We recently had our hardwood floors refinished by a friend of a friend who said he knew what he was doing. The floor has dents/waves in it and the finish is not smooth but has small pimply bumps on it. Is there any way to fix this without refinishing the floor entirely? We haven’t paid this “friend” yet – what should we do?
The dents/waves were not in the floor before it was sanded. Could the sander have caused them? Is there a way to fix without resanding all of the newly applied stain and polyurethane?
Installing an engineered wood floor. Plywood subfloor is warped. Do I put the underlayment first and then roof shingles to fill the deeps or first shingles and then underlayment?
In other words, is underlayment protecting the subfloor or the hardwood?
I’m not positive that using roof shingles is the right way, but I’ve found it online as an alternative to floor leveling compound.
Thanks.
I am refinishing a book case. I stripped it and sanded it and stained Red Mahogany (Minwax). Minwax says that Red Mahogany has to be coated by oil-based poly, so fine. Put the first coat.
Now, I would like to decoupage this book case. After googling the matter, it seems that a) I need at least 2 polyurethane coats before I can glue the pictures on, and b) water-based decoupage media such as Mod Podge and the like might not work very well (apparently, with heavy use they may start peeling off the oil-based stuff).
So now what should I do? Any advice? I like the idea of clear water-based poly over the picture; anybody had experience with laying it over oil-based poly on items such as tables and shelves and others that withstand some use? If I must stick to oil-based, what should I use for glue?
Any tips and experience sharing will be much appreciated.
Oh, BTW the picture is a photograph on glossy paper. Some suggest to make a copy and glue that instead. What do you think?
Thanks and have a great day.
Eskie – so, 3M Work Fixative and Super 77 adhesive? Will get.